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| Sunshine Coast; An Eco Adventure, Whatever the Weather By Jane Cassie Photos by Brent Cassie |
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| What’s one thing that most
people hope for when planning a vacation? Good weather, right? It’s always
top priority on my travel wish list. So, as we load onto the BC ferry, bound for
Langdale, my spirits literally dampen when pellet-size droplets spill from the
swollen skies.
“Maybe the Sunshine Coast will live up to its name,” my optimistically-minded husband says, from beneath his protective umbrella. “I’ve heard the odds are pretty good.” He’s absolutely right. It’s reported that this lush 180 kilometer (110 mi) strip of shoreline, sandwiched between Pacific waves and coastal peaks, receives around 2,400 hours of annual sun. Though it’s a little premature to dig out the sun block, my fingers are crossed. Our island-studded cruise of Howe Sound is scenic and smooth, and by the time we bridge the forty minute waterway my weather wish comes true. A few meager rays break through the thick grey dome above and brighten the adventuresome route that waits ahead. While some veer into the seaside town of Gibsons, and home of Molly’s Reach, we take the high road. Gnarled arbutus trees and bushy evergreens frame our peek-a-boo ocean views where kayakers, canoeists and sailors ply protected waterways. Land lovers are lured to the Mother lode of ‘grounded’ adventures; nature walks, hiking trails, picnic pull-ins and campgrounds –everything from rustic backwoods sites to lush parks that are packed with amenities. We coast through the laid-back community of Robert’s Creek, parallel the promenade that rims Davis Bay and tootle along Sechelt’s main drag. This thriving hub that’s well rooted by Coast Salish heritage is linked by a slender isthmus to BC’s mainland. An inland sea, gouged out by the melting ice age 10,000 years ago, fills the gap in between. Today, this tranquil waterway is rated one of the top 100 dive sites in the world, and the sunken HMCS Chaudiere provides a flourishing reef. Situated at the southern end of this idyllic inlet is Porpoise Bay Provincial Park, just one of the pleasure stops that dot the shoreline. Tall timbers shade the grassy areas and a sandy beachfront skirts the bay. As well being a drawing card for families, kayakers take to these still waters, floatplanes view them from above, and anchored yachts bob here in regal style. Although it all looks inviting, we keep on trekking –along Halfmoon Bay, beyond the alluring picnic grounds of Coopers Green Regional Park and past the hidden gem of Secret Cove. Finally we meander into Pender Harbour, a waterfront enclave that collectively unites the communities of Madeira Park, Garden Bay and Irving’s Landing. Inlets are sculpted into the lush shoreline, lakes are carved into the wooded hillsides and islets dot the aquatic perimeters. It’s not surprising that this stunning seascape has been coined ‘Venice of the North.’ We also discover that it’s one epic playground! Before expending any energy, we re-fuel at the Copper Sky Café and Gallery, a funky eatery that combines home cooking with artisan treasures. With mile-high sandwiches and scrumptious pastry under our belt, we’re ready for action and Andy Cardiff, owner of Malaspina Water Taxi has plenty of it to dish out. He’s been the skipper of his ocean going cruisers and kayaks since 2005 and it’s easy to see he’s in his glory. “I operate year-round, 24/ 7,” he says with a wide grin. “And to me, this kind of work is playtime.” We could paddle to the untarnished jewel of Jedediah Island where hiking trails weave through old-growth Douglas Fir or cruise to the distant Chatterbox Falls that tumbles from a forty-five meter precipice. But there’s no need to stray that far. The surrounding region not only offers unspoiled beauty but brims over with natural wonders.
We both love the great outdoors and though the Sunshine Coast is dotted with places to pitch a tent, when it comes to doing the ‘camp thing’ my husband and I don’t quite jive. He’d be quite content to cuddle in a mummy bag of eiderdown, but my spine goes into spasm after sleeping on a mattress of earthy rough stuff. Thanks to our posh eco-style accommodations along the way, more on my wish list is granted.
Bountiful breakfasts are included with each night’s stay and though a communal barbecue, fridge and cooking facilities are available for other meals, guests often opt for the delicious delights ala Liza. It’s hard to turn down her miso-glazed halibut, wasabi mashed potatoes and roasted asparagus, especially when paired with Garret’s recommended vino. Yes, it sure beats baked beans around the campfire! And this hideaway also offers lots of ways to help burn off those unwanted calories. Balance on a wakeboard, skim the lake on a boat cruise, trek the trails that lace its seven wooded acres –or feel free to follow our lead. Just sit back and relax in the shadow of Hallowell Mountain and enjoy this slice of serenity. In addition to seclusion, our next eco retreat, literally offers a taste of Desolation.
From the ferry drop off point at the divers den of Saltery Bay, Highway 101 continues to pave the way. We pass by a strip of verdant parkland that links the hub of Westview with Powell River’s historic Townsite, bisect the recreation jewel of Powell Lake and slink by the Coast Salish village of Sliammon. It’s tempting to stop and survey each scene, but we’re on a mission for more creature comforts. And we soon find them at the end of the road.
Overlooking this waterfront town from its solo rocky bluff is The Sevilla Island Resort, a posh spot that combines pampering perks with treats from the sea. Owners Ian Hobbs and Donna Kaye roll out the red carpet and in the comfort of their cruiser we’re transported to this dream scene. The thirty five hundred square foot treasure delightfully unites flavours of the West Coast with Santa Fe. Gleaming hemlock floors lead us to our handsomely decorated suite, where a colourful duvet drapes the comfy queen bed and flat screen TV provides late night viewing. Thirsty towels and heat lamps warm up the spa style bathroom, and our private deck offers an awesome sea view. The same vista is framed by the twenty four foot high windows of the main floor great room, a faux finished beauty where we can read, relax, watch TV or listen to music.
“I’ve been diving all over the world,” Ian shares, “And the underwater metropolis in this area beats anything I’ve ever seen.” Whether it’s from behind a snorkel and mask or in the comfort of his ocean-worthy cruiser, Ian promises to make your every eco wish come true. Kayak the neighboring islands where you’ll spot seals, eagles, and sea stars. Bike on Savary Island and picnic on a sandy beach, or hike the Sunshine Coast Trail that stretches all the way to Saltery Bay.
We cruise up Thulin passage, a slim waterway that separates the mainland from the Copeland Islands and slow down to take photos of stoic cormorants, blue herons and a family of mergansers. Birdlife is prolific in these parts, as is the beauty. Kingfishers, sandpipers, gulls and other migratory species are spotted around the craggy shorelines, evergreen islets and older growth timber. We agree whole-heartedly with Jacques Cousteau that the scenery is second to none.
If You Go: Copper Sky Café and Gallery Malaspina Water Taxi & Tours Sakinaw Lake Lodge Sevilla Island Resort Terracentric Coastal adventures
ltd. Sunshine Coast This week Traveling Tales
welcomes the freelance travel writer/photographer team of Jane and Brent Cassie,
who live in South Surrey, a suburb of Vancouver B.C.. About The Photos: |
With
Andy at the helm, we cruise out of the harbor, passing classy hilltop homes and
the hiker’s hangout of Mount Daniel. We check out the craggy Indian Islands
where eagles, herons and teary-eyed seals provide non-stop entertainment and sidle
up to Fearney Bluffs, a 120 meter (400 ft) deep grotto that thrives with sea life.
Pictographs etched on granite rock faces depict an ancient story and Agamemnon
Channel frames the omnipresent snow tipped peaks. Our final stop is Robert’s
Beach on Nelson Island where remnants of an old log cabin still stand. Embracing
the setting is crescent-shaped shoreline that’s strewn with storm-tossed
driftwood. As well as a hot spot to explore it’s a perfect place to reflect
and relax. And like the rest of this two hour tour, leaves us with a sense of
awe. 
Even
though it’s just minutes from the grid, Sakinaw Lake Lodge feels blissfully
removed from civilization. We’re whisked away by an African Queen-like pontoon
boat to the far side of the lake where it snuggles into the forested hillside.
Two of the guest sanctuaries cantilever over lapping waves. The main cozy cottage
that sleeps three, boasts an all-equipped kitchen and the penthouse tent house
depicts glamping to a tee. Chiropractic queen beds, crisp Egyptian cotton duvets,
comfy Fretted bathrobes –this is my kind of camping! 
The
property is a labor of love for Garrett and Liza Gabriel, and Garrett’s
mother, Donna. “We each have our preferences and talents,” Liza shares.
“Donna has the green gardener’s thumb, Garret is the wine guy and
I do most of the cooking.” 
Jervis
Inlet bisects the upper and lower sections of the Sunshine Coast and BC Ferries
bridges them together. Our fifty minute scenic cruise is more like a National
Geographic slide show and from front row seats the rolling vistas include quiet
inlets, lush finger-like fjords and jagged peaks. 
The
quaint historical fishing village of Lund, founded by the Thulin brothers in 1889,
is also the gateway to Desolation Sound. Along with remnants of the Swedish heritage
it oozes lots of charm and allure. A boardwalk flanked by a handful of shops and
eateries trails down to the hull-filled marina. Whether it’s waiting for
the fresh catch to come in or a tour boat to go out, there’s never a dull
moment. 
In
the adjacent dining room mealtime magic happens three times a day. Our palates
are pleased after the chef savvy line-up; beautifully executed crab cakes precede
Sevilla Island Seafood Boats, Ian’s sensational creation of roasted squash
that brims over with scallops, salmon, and prawns. After being paired with fine
wine it’s topped off with a decadent dessert. We also discover that the
breakfasts are just as grand: melt in your mouth blueberry scones and homemade
preserves, followed by hearty entrees –ranging from anything and everything
omelets to fluffy French toast. Ian and Donna believe a hearty meal is an important
start to the day. And in order to check out the abundant sea life that thrives
below the lapping waves, you’ll want to be energized. 
Lund’s
Terracentric Coastal Adventures also provides tours above and beneath the deep,
and on our final day we venture out on a zodiac, with high hopes of spotting some
sea life. The sky looks ominous and dark bulbous clouds threaten rain. Once again
my fingers are crossed for a little bit of luck. 
Terracentric
believes that we’re all connected to our natural environment and our guide
Christine Hollmann has a wonderful way of integrating eco-education with the stunning
surroundings. While paralleling the mainland, we learn about the First Nations
people and explorer Captain Vancouver. In shallow bays she shares the symbiotic
relationship between otters, sea urchins and kelp. And when checking out lazy
sun-bathing seals we discover the importance of keeping our distance. This act
of privacy is a guideline that Christine closely adheres to and though we never
invade their personal space, we’re able to get a real good glimpse of the
sea life that abounds. 
As
we’re heading back, we have one last performance –a grand finale off
to the distant starboard. Jet black torsos break the still surface, revealing
their pure white undercarriages before submerging again. They swim at record speeds,
darting back and forth, leaping and cresting in unison, creating a riot of rooster
tail spray. Though it’s just a feeding frenzy to these Dall's Porpoise,
it’s a synchronized water ballet to us. And as rays of sun slice through
the cloudy overcast sky, another wish is granted. The Sunshine Coast –it’s
a destination of eco excellence whatever the weather!